Surrounded by lakes and forests, this compact city in southern Sweden makes for a deliciously sustainable weekend break.
Sitting beside a gorgeous lake in the centre of the Swedish province of Smaland, Vaxjo has long been an important marketplace and crossroads.
Its twin-spired cathedral dates from the 1400s, on the site once occupied by a wooden church in AD 1170. The city itself is small and compact, bursting with lively bars, cafes and a Michelin-rated cuisine built on sustainability and the unique ingredients produced in the surrounding lakes, forests and farms.
The city is circled by 23 nature reserves, a good deal of them within walking and cycling distance of the centre, with a 25.5-mile (41km) path linking it with the great outdoors.
Vaxjo makes for the greenest of relaxing European city breaks. Here’s what to do here over the course of a weekend.
Friday
Check into: The PM & Vanner Hotel. Opened in 1992 by friends Per Bengtsson and Monica Carlsson, this stylish hotel is where the soul of Smaland meets the world. Each room was designed by Sweden’s grande dame of design, Ingegerd Raman, and based on the three cornerstones of the region: forest, lake and meadow. Expect sparse and elegant interiors with luxurious details like oak floors sourced from the deep forests of Smaland; and limestone and marble bathrooms from Oland, an island nearby.
READ MORE: Six reasons to spend summer in southern Sweden
Have dinner at: PM & Vanner Restaurant. PM & Vanner actually started out as a restaurant and the hotel was built around it. Diners from the rest of Sweden (and the world) wanted somewhere to stay in Vaxjo with a similar philosophy and aesthetic to the restaurant. The menu offers a sophisticated take on Smaland’s regional cuisine, with dishes such as pikeperch and elk, and has been awarded a Michelin star and a Michelin Green Star for sustainability. Should the restaurant be fully booked (it’s only open Wed-Sat) the hotel’s bistro is equally excellent.
